Dumfries
September 25, 2001
Today we drove through Castle Douglas and Dalbeattie, past the Mersehead Sands, to Kirkbean and the Museum at Arbigland on Solway Firth. In 1747 in the small gardener's cottage of the estate John Paul, junior, son of John Paul and his wife Jean, was born. This boy, better known as John Paul Jones, is regarded as the founder of the American Navy and played a significant role as American commander in naval battles during the Revolutionary War, many of which were fought in Solway Firth. The reconstructed cottage has been furnished as it would have been in the 18th century.
The museum also contains a room representing the cabin of Jones' ship "Bonhomme Richard" in which Jones defeated the British HMS Seraphis off Flamborough Head, Yorkshire in 1779. An audiovisual program of the battle recalls under what conditions Jones spoke the words, "I have not yet begun to fight," when he was asked during the battle by Peason, Commander of the Seraphis, "Sir, do you ask for quarter?" The program and house, opened to the public in 1993, are well worth seeing.
Today we see ruins of these once magnificent buildings, constructed of the local red sandstone and beautifully carved into columns and elaborate windows. They stand on brilliant green turf so thick it looks like moss.
We went north to the town of Dumfries on the River Nith to visit the various sites associated with the later life of Scottish poet Robert Burns. We started with an interesting film on Burns' life at the Robert Burns Centre located in the old burgh mill on the River Nith and then had lunch at the pub in the Globe Inn tucked away in a narrow alley off the High Street. Burns' "Howff" and the Snug Bar are said to retain much of the 18th century atmosphere when Burns was an "honoured favoured guest."
We toured the Burns' House where he and his family lived from May 1793 until his death on July 21, 1796. Our earlier visit to Alloway plus our experiences in Dumfries have given us a greater appreciation of the life of this famous man and the difficulties he faced as a creative man who needed to earn a living to support his family.
From Dumfries we returned to the Craigadam Hotel where a real surprise awaited us. The hotel owners had arranged to have a piper, complete to a shade in his Highland kilt, play a special program for our party. What a treat! Dinner was also outstanding, with a lovely Game Meat Casserole that contained pheasant, grouse, partridge and venison and a sticky toffee pudding for dessert.
