Inner Leithen
September 30, 2001
After breakfast at Bessietown Farm we went in search of Westerhall House, a tower house that had been occupied by the Glendennings from the 14th century to the early 1600s. Westerhall was originally known as "Dalduran" and was part of the barony of Westerker (Watstirker) in the 13th century. The Glendennings acquired possession of Dalduran from the Douglasses sometime during the 14th century. "Glendenning and Dalduran were eventually sold by the Glendennings in 1605 to James Johnston of Westraw; in 1606 the name James Johnston of Westerhall first appears on record." (For additional information see The Border Towers of Scotland: the West March by Alastair M. T. Maxwell-Irving).
We actually located the house 4 1/2 miles northwest from Langholm on a secondary road on the east side of the River Esk between Burnfoot and Bentpath. The tower is incorporated into a lovely manor house that is part of a large estate. Nearby we discovered an old churchyard with several Glendenning and Irving gravestones. Our wonderings also led us past fields that contained dozens of partridges and pheasants. What a sight!
We drove north past Eskdalemuir, Johnstone and Ettrick with a side trip to St. Mary's Loch and tea at Tibby Shiels Inn. The pub was a favorite place for Sir. Walter Scott to meet James Hogg, the "Ettrick Shepherd." Then we drove north through Innerleithen to the wonderful Peebles Hydro Hotel, our home for two nights.
We retraced our path back to Innerleithen for lunch and a tour of Traquair Castle. The name comes from "Tra", a dwelling or hamlet and "Quair" is a tributary of the Tweed. This very interesting house, home of the Stuarts and Maxwell Stuarts, has many items associated with Scottish Kings and Queens including Mary Queen of Scots' rosary and crucifix plus petit point embroidery dating from 1600. There is also a priest's hole and secret stair case.
We also viewed the famous Bear Gates, which were closed one late autumn day in 1745 when Prince Charles Edward Stuart passed through after being a guest at Traquair. The gates remain closed to this day.
The wind through the rusted iron sings,
The sun on the self-sown tangle burns
But never a hoof on the roadway rings-
The gate is shut till the King returns.
W. H. Ogilvie
